I’ve always wanted to visit Seoul, so I planned a short stopover there before joining my group tour in Bangkok. As the largest city in South Korea, Seoul blends ancient palaces with high-tech skyscrapers. Formerly known as Hanyang or Hanseong, it was established as the capital of the Joseon Dynasty in 1394 by King Taejo. It remained the capital of Korea for over 500 years and later became the capital of South Korea following the peninsula’s division in 1948.
Day 1
I arrived at Incheon International Airport late at night and checked into Hotel Atrium, which I chose for its affordability and location in Jongno District. Often considered the historic, cultural, and administrative heart of Seoul, Jongno has served as the city’s centre for over 600 years. The room was clean and comfortable, making it a convenient base for exploring such a historically rich part of the city.
Day 2
Seochon Hanok Village
I started my day in Seochon Hanok Village, one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Jongno. Walking through its narrow streets, I was able to see traditional hanoks, Korean houses that have been preserved within the modern city. It felt like an introduction not just to Korean architecture, but to the continuity of everyday life across generations.
For lunch, I went to Maji, a vegan restaurant serving traditional Korean temple food inside a hanok. I ordered the lotus leaf steamed rice set, which included rice, soup, side dishes, jeon (a Korean pancake), sweet and sour shiitake, salad, and tea. The meal reflected the principles of temple cuisine: simple, balanced, and deeply connected to tradition. It was delicious!
National Palace Museum of Korea
A short walk away, I visited the National Palace Museum of Korea, located next to Gyeongbokgung Palace. The museum houses over 40,000 artifacts and royal treasures from the Joseon Dynasty and the Korean Empire. Admission was free, and it provided important context before visiting the palace itself.
Gyeongbokgung Palace
I then made my way to Gwanghwamun Gate to watch the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony at Gyeongbokgung Palace. This reenactment of a Joseon Dynasty tradition takes place daily (except Tuesdays) at 10 AM and 2 PM. From the drums to the brightly coloured uniforms, the ceremony offered a glimpse into Korea’s royal past and how it is remembered today.
Afterward, I entered Gyeongbokgung Palace. Established in 1395, it was the first royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty. However, much of what stands today is the result of reconstruction. The palace was destroyed during the Japanese invasions of 1592 (Imjin War), likely set ablaze by retreating forces, and was not rebuilt until the late 19th century.
During the Japanese occupation beginning in 1910, the palace was systematically dismantled and altered, leaving only about 40 of its original 500 buildings by the time Korea was liberated in 1945. Restoration began in the 1990s, including the demolition of the former Japanese Government-General building in 1995. Major restoration efforts between 1995 and 2008 reconstructed many structures, and work continues today, with the goal of restoring around 90 buildings by 2045.
Walking through the palace, it was impossible not to think about these layers of destruction and restoration. The site is not just historically significant; it reflects Korea’s resilience and ongoing efforts to reclaim and preserve its heritage.
National Folk Museum of Korea
I then visited the National Folk Museum of Korea, located on the palace grounds. The museum focuses on the daily lives of Korean people from prehistoric times to the present.
My favourite exhibit was Streets of Memories (1970s–1980s), an outdoor reconstruction of a typical Seoul neighbourhood from that period. It added another layer to my understanding of Korean history, showing how much has changed within living memory.
Day 3
Jongmyo Shrine
After breakfast, I walked to Jongmyo Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a Confucian royal ancestral shrine dedicated to the kings and queens of the Joseon Dynasty. Originally built in 1394 under King Taejo, it was destroyed during the Japanese invasions (1592–1598) and rebuilt in the early 17th century. The site felt more solemn than the palaces, emphasizing remembrance and ritual over display.
Changgyeonggung Palace
I continued walking through the park until I reached Changgyeonggung Palace. Originally built in 1418 by King Sejong for his father (then called Suganggung), it was expanded in 1483 and renamed. Like many historical sites in Seoul, it has experienced repeated destruction and rebuilding, burned during the Imjin War, rebuilt in 1616, damaged again in 1830, and restored in 1834.
During Japanese colonial rule (1907–1909), much of the palace was dismantled and replaced with a park, zoo, and botanical garden. In 1983, these were removed, and a full-scale restoration project began, returning the palace to its historical form.
Changdeokgung Palace
I then visited the adjacent Changdeokgung Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best-preserved royal palaces in Korea. Built in 1405, it became the main royal residence after being rebuilt in 1610 following destruction during the Imjin War.
The palace was damaged again during internal conflicts in the early 17th century and by a fire in 1917. During the Japanese colonial period in Korea, many buildings at Gyeongbokgung Palace were dismantled, and some materials were reused in work at Changdeokgung Palace. Restoration efforts since the 1990s have helped return the palace to its historical appearance.
What stood out most to me was that even after Japan deposed the Korean monarchy in 1910, members of the royal family continued to live in Changdeokgung under strict surveillance. After Korea’s liberation in 1945, they remained there until 1989, when the last royal residents passed away. This made the site feel not just historical, but connected to the present.
Final Thoughts
I really loved my short time in Seoul. As someone who travels to learn, especially through history, it was an incredibly rewarding destination. The vibrant colours of the palaces and guards’ uniforms stood in striking contrast to the grey tones of the Korean winter. Even in just a few days, I left with a much deeper appreciation for Korea’s history and resilience.
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